Monday, September 5th - Dolomites hike

We both slept very well. Up early to enjoy the best breakfast we've had at any of those on offer at our accommodation places. With a big day planned, we were off and away by 8:30am, driving the relatively short distance to the carpark at the base of the gondola. Being one of the first in the carpark, we felt we were off to a good start.

The gondola was really fun and the steep trip up the mountainside well worth the price. It was possible to trek up instead, but we didn't want to waste our energy before we started our hike proper. It was perfect weather, the sun burning off the thin cloud, and no wind. Arriving at the time, the scene before us was one of wide open meadows, studded with tiny log cabins. The contrast with the hikes we did in the Dolomites from Dobbiaco could not have been greater. This time the paths sidled across meadows, were not generally very steep, and were a lot more even and pleasant underfoot. It made for extremely enjoyable walking.

One funny thing is that you need to think twice when reading the direction signs. A direction sign to a higher lift can point a hiker the wrong way - they are designed to point skiers to a lower lift they can use to go up, rather than hikers going directly there! We once wasted 200m of descent and re-ascent before we realised what had happened.

On the way up

The expansive views, particularly those from up on the ridgeline, took in a number of valleys which were clad in forest, pasture or, on the valley floors, little settlements. Gondolas were numerous, and it's possible to move between four large valleys via the combination of gondola rides. They are quite expensive but they offer endless options. As do the tracks - there are paths in all directions and at a variety of heights. 

The first part of the walk was through groomed pastures. 

Through the pasture

Easy walking

The view from up high on the mountainside was wonderful. We looked down over the smooth green pastures, dotted with cabins, small sheds, the odd cow, and lots of paths. The grass seems to be cut by machine now, judging by the tracks, rather than scythed by hand. The hay is stored in the sheds spotted around the pastures, and then is brought down to feed the cows in their barns during winter time. The agricultural scene looks so different to NZ. I think this is partly because there are rarely fences around the dwellings/cabins or fields, the properties appear to merge seamlessly with one another, and grassy plateaus are spread all through the mountain ranges, often well above densely forested mountainsides.

Looking down on where we had walked

We then chose a route through a more remote valley, which took us up close and personal to some very tall cows, and then down to one of the numerous refuges, where we ate our picnic lunch. On this walk alone, some 10km, there were at least 6 places we could have bought food or drink!

Going a little more remote

The refuges are in fact very substantial restaurant/accommodation lodges, complete with large indoor and outdoor seating areas to cater for the large numbers of people who hike in the area in summer, or ski the terrain in winter. It's easily possible to stop mid-trek and have a four-course meal, complete with wine. Equally on tap are beer or cocktails, which you can enjoy on a sunlounger while admiring the mountain views. It's such a foreign concept to trampers from NZ. 

One of the refuges

Another one. Gin and tonic anyone?

On the last leg back to the gondola

We are definitely at the end of the tourist season here. Schools have gone back in Italy and France, and presumably Germany as well. There weren't many people on the mountainside today, and the gondola cabins typically carried only two people, or none. We certainly enjoyed the relative peace compared to the hikes we did on the much more popular routes above Dobbiaco. It's a real surprise how many people take their dogs up on the mountain. It's permitted, provided they are on a leash, which they aren't always. To see a silly little poodle or similar being led along steep limestone tracks seems extreme, but their owners think nothing of it, even if they have to carry them for kilometres.

We thoroughly enjoyed our 10km walk today and capped it off with a large beer at the refuge by the gondola station. It was our farewell to the Dolomites.

A well deserved beer to salute the Dolomites.

Our plan tomorrow is possibly to do a shorter 7km walk above the little town we are staying in, Santa Cristina, which takes in some old homesteads. The forecast is for rain from tomorrow afternoon, so we have been very lucky so far with all our treks.

Our feet are telling us that they'd like a rest too. During the last week we've walked 88km, the week before was 94km and the one before that was 83km. This afternoon we're having a bit of a rest, having arrived back at the unit by 2:30pm. In fact I couldn't keep my eyes open and ended up having an hour's nana nap. A few hours later John suffered from one of his 'coffee episodes'. Typically he recovers quickly once he throws up. Not much fun but effective! However, this time it was a somewhat prolonged episode. He's been careful with his coffee regime but maybe the one he had for breakfast didn't have enough caffeine to register in his system.

Clearly John didn't want anything for dinner, so I had the salad we'd bought. With both of us feeling very tired, we turned out the light at 8pm. Even though I'd had an afternoon nap, I slept for 11 hours, and John slept just 30 minutes less. We must have been tired!